Tools/Parts Needed:

1 - Voltmeter
1 - Philips head screwdriver
1 - roll 18 gauge (or thicker wire)
1 - set of wire labels
1 - wire cutter
1 - wire stripper
1 - bundle of tie-wraps
1 - bundle of butt connectors to splice wire ends together
1 - roll of electrical tape

Have a voltmeter ready just to verify voltages here and there.

For splicing two ends of a wire, I used butt connectors.  These have two ends.  Insert
the stripped ends of each of the 2 wires into each end of the connector and crimp them
down.  Wrap it with some electrical tape to give it a little more support.

For doing a T-style splice (where you just want to tap into an existing wire), take
wire strippers and make 2 cuts about 1/8" apart into the wire's covering and use a
knife to remove that section of covering.  (Be careful not to cut the actual wire!)
Take the other wire and strip the end.  Wrap it around the exposed section you just
cut out of the other wire and hold it all together with electrical tape.  You could
also be fancy and use the tap connector that comes with the Valentine One to do this.

Step 1.

Ground.  Splice the ground wire of the gauge panel to the ground wire you pulled out of
the cigarette lighter.  (The brown one with the exposed metal connector.)  Wrap the
splice point with some electrical tape.

Light-switched +12V.  This power source provides +12V only when the switch on your headlight/
dimmer panel is on.  It will be used to power the lights in the gauge panel.  Unfortunately,
the only source I could find for this is the tiny wire that powers the ashtray light.  After
reading some ampacity charts, I estimate this wire can carry between 1 and 2 amps of current.
The lights on the gauge panel together take about .6 amps at 12V and .8 amps at 14V (which is
how much voltage is present when the engine is running).  The ashtray light doesn't take
too much so I the wire should be thick enough, although I wouldn't try adding much more to
this wire in the future.  Ok, so splice the positive terminal of this wire to the light-switched
+12V wire on your gauge panel.

Switched +12V.  This power source is controlled by the key.  When you have it in ACCESSORY
or the ON positions, this provides +12V.  When the key is off, this source is at 0V.  There
are plenty of wires in the car that have this property, but what I did was hook a wire up
to the fuse box.  The fuse box is above the glovebox compartment.  There are two white tabs
that, when twisted 90 degrees, will allow the fuse box to drop down.  There is a little white
card at the bottom of the box that shows the layout for the fuses.  I used the one labeled
"Instrument Panel."  Use the orange tweezers found at the middle of the fusebox to remove the
fuse.  Now, cut some wire about 3 feet long and feed one end behind the right wall of the
center console and pull it out the front of the console.  Strip about 1/4" off the end and
stick it into the bottom terminal of the fuse socket and push the fuse back in.  I also
tie-wrapped this wire to the fuse box to make sure it holds in place nicely.  Splice the
other end to the switched +12V wire on your gauge panel.

Signal wires.  Strip the ends of the two signal wires and crimp spade connectors to them.
Connect them up to the "S" terminals of the appropriate gauge.