Tools/Parts Needed:

1 - wratchet
1 - torque wrench (11 ft.lbs.)
1 - 17mm deep-socket
1 - roll 18 gauge (or thicker wire)
1 - set of wire labels
1 - wire cutter
1 - wire stripper
1 - bundle of tie-wraps
1 - roll of electrical tape
1 - clip

You should do this during an oil change since it requires replacing the factory drain plug
with the temperature sender.  Remove the factory drain plug from the oil pan and screw in
the temperature sender.  Make sure you put the washer on the sender too.  The sender has
a lower torque spec. than the factory plug, so make sure you remember this when torquing it
down.  (The torque spec. for the sender is 11ft.lbs)

Now comes the wiring part.  Cut a length of wire about 2 car lengths.  The oil pan is on the
right side of the engine so you may be tempted to drop the wire down that side, but don't.
That side of the engine gets really hot!  What I did was drop the wire down near where
the airbox and airhose meet and run it along the stress bar (red) that passes under the oil pan (blue).
I used tie wraps to fasten the wire to the bar.  Strip the end of the wire and crimp a
clip onto the wire that fits the temp. sender end.  Ok.  So I lied.  I'm still waiting for my
oil change to be due up so I haven't done this part yet, but what the picture shows is that
I dropped the wire down as described and coiled up enough wire to run along the stress bar to the
oil pan and just tied it off to the suspension in this picture.