T’s Climbing Page
Photos:
Favorite Rock Routes:
Joshua Tree
- Bearded Cabbage 5.10c – Given only 3 stars, this is my favorite at Joshua Tree.
- Ocean of Night 5.10c – Echo Cove - next to Big Mo's.
Yosemite
- Stone Groove - Cookie Cliff
- Heathanistic Pursuit - Chappel Wall
- Wet Dennim Day Dream A4 –
Exposed aid route on the leaning tower. Used to have a
chicken bolt on the crux (A4) pitch, which may or may not be
gone. (Without the bolt my partner would have decked during
a fall…) The last pitch goes out a 20 foot roof.
- Sacher Cracker – though
considered a classic by the guide book, not many people I’ve
met have heard of this little gem. Fingers for the start
(crux) widening all the way to a chimney at the end. Make
sure you bring some wide pro for the top. Also check out
Mark of Art (just to the right).
- Direct Northwest Face of Sintenel A3+
– LOOSE AND SCARY. This is more of an un-recommended
route. It’s there as a decent A3 nail up or a damn
hard free climb. With rock this loose, its hard to imagine
free climbing. With enough traffic over time, this could
wind up a fun route.
- Higher Cathedral Spire 5.9 –
Damn good route with a slightly long approach. I climbed
this over 4th of July weekend a few years back. We
were the only people on it. Make sure you bring a topo as
there seems to be a lot of off route fixed gear that could lure
you into much harder turf. Also watch out for some loose
stuff near the top. It does not detract from the climb, but
it there none the less.
- Middle Cathedral Rock – 50
Crowded Variation of East Buttress 5.10a – We literally had
5 teams above us on the regular East Buttress. Good
varation worth considering on crowded day. Bring a some
small tcus, nuts, or aliens for the 10a pitch.
- Synapse Collapse - An apron climb destroyed by rock fall in the late 90's.
High Sierra
- Swiss Arette of Mt. Sill – My first Sierra 14'er. Easy snow gully to an outstanding rock route.
Lover's Leap
- Fantasia 5.9 R – super run-out. Best route at The Leap.
Pinnacles
- Cuidado 5.10c/d – Best route at the pinnacles. Super
amazing multi pitch 5.10 knobs! Be super careful not to pull off loose stuff onto the trail below. Best on a non-crowded day.
- Unnamed route left of Cuidado - 5.10 ish R -
This is not in any guide book yet. This is a line of 6 bolts to a
natural anchor, 100 feet to the left of Cuidado. The first bolt
hanger is purple. The anchor consists of a slung section of
rather loose rock. If you do this route be prepared for loose
rock up high. WEAR A HELMET!!! There is still a chance you could
knock stuff on hikers in the caves, though not as much as on
Cuidado. It looks as if someone may have done a second pitch.
There is a loose fixed pin 10 feet above the belay. There is a
possiblility that the route could continue on up through a chute
up above, and end near the last pitch of Cuidado. There is loose
rock higher up!. With enough people climbing it, this could be a
really good line. We first spotted the bolts in 1993 when we got
the 4th or 5th ascent of Cuidado.
Other Mountain Pages:
Frank Rodger's Page
Tuan's Mountaineering Page
Lee Vining Ice Climbing Info
Contact:
tl obay at ya hoo d0t c0 m
